Master Electric is a family owned and operated local, full-service electrical company.
As licensed, bonded and insured electrical contractors we offer a full range of electrical services for Residential, Commercial, Industrial and Electrical Design whether it’s for both New Construction or and Existing Installations.
Our number one goal is to deliver quality, dependable, and efficient electrical services at competitive rates. We take great pride in customer satisfaction and we make sure the job is done right at a fair price.
Our Service Area includes Thurston County, Pierce County and Lewis County where we can take care of all your electrical needs—from troubleshooting to remodels/additions, new construction and everything in between. We offer quality workmanship at a fair price and never compromise our exceptional and dependable service.
Get in touch with us today for your free estimate!
Frequently Asked Questions About Our Electrical Services
Frequently Asked Questions
YES. If you have new construction or a remodel we will give a free estimate. However, sometimes people call that have an electrical problem and want an estimate to repair the problem. Depending on the specific problem, you must call to determine whether a free estimate is appropriate or you need a licensed electrician to come out, diagnose the problem and come up with a solution, which would be a service call and not a free estimate.
If the whole building is out of power, the problem is either in the main distribution panel or there is no utility power coming to the building. First, check the main circuit breaker and make sure it is in the "On" position. If it is in the "tripped" position, it is usually midway between "On" and "Off". In that case, push the circuit breaker handle firmly to the "Off" position and then back to "On". If it trips again, you need a service call. If the lights come back on, you are okay for now but you should schedule a service call to determine why that circuit breaker tripped as it may be a fire hazard that needs to be corrected. If the circuit breaker was in the "On" position when you first checked it, call the Utility and make sure you are still getting power from the street. If there is still power to the building, you need to call and schedule a service call.
If the lights are out, check the circuit breakers in the panel. If you see a circuit breaker has is tripped, reset it (see previous question). If lights are too bright or too dim, turn off the circuit breaker(s) controlling those circuits and unplug any appliances or other equipment plugged into the affected circuits. Call for a service call because you may have a dangerous over voltage condition.
A “short” is shorthand for a short circuit. This is simply a condition where electricity no longer flows through its normal path. This often causes fuses to blow and/or circuit breakers to trip. Often when someone speaks of a "short" they are talking about something electricians call an "open" which is a case in which electricity can no longer flow to its intended load. Whatever an abnormal condition is named, it needs to be repaired.
The problem could be a tripped Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). In most homes these are special receptacles that have a “test” and “reset” button built into them. Their function is to remove power to the outlet in the case of ground fault conditions, thereby increasing safety to homeowners. Some homes built in the early 1980's, have the first GFCI in the garage. Sometimes it's behind the freezer or a cabinet. Locate all your GFCI outlets and push the “reset” button located in the middle of the plate. If the button keeps popping out or won't stay in, then there is a problem that needs correction.
Washington State law requires an electrical permit must be obtained PRIOR to any electrical work beginning, whether new construction or remodel/addition. The only exception is a repair which replaces “like for like.”
This is power usually available in commercial areas but not in residential neighborhoods. Most large pieces of electrical equipment require this type of power. If you have a piece of three-phase equipment that you need to run on single-phase power, there are several solutions available that we can help you with. If you have a piece of single-phase equipment that you need to run on a three-phase power system, this is easily accomplished.
A service upgrade is usually done either to bring additional power to a building or home, or to replace an outmoded or unsafe electrical system. As an example, electrical systems in older buildings, before 1950, commonly used fuses to protect the electrical circuits. Today, modern circuit breaker panels replace outdated fuse panels. Another example is when a home or business is adding a large electrical load to their existing system and the electrical service is inadequate to handle the increased load.
When the electrical service ahead of the electrical panel is in good shape, but the panel itself is outmoded or too small, just the panel can be replaced. In this case, the incoming power to the building—consisting of the metering, the service mast to the roof or the underground service lateral must be in good condition. Normally the grounding system is upgraded also at this time.
This requires the installation of a Transfer Switch which connects the power between the generator and the house panel. The Transfer Switch automatically routes power to designated house circuits if the main power source is not available. The Transfer Switch mounts beside your house panel and can safely switch power between your generator and utility power.
Yes. The electrical code has quite a few very specific rules regarding hot tubs. This is because there are additional electrical hazards related to hot tubs that make more restrictive rules important.
Generally most homes that have a 200 or 400 amp service can handle the addition of a hot tub. If you have a home that has a 100 or 125 amp service, we can do a load calculation to determine whether you need to upgrade your service.
While these adapters are sometimes used to make this type of connection, there is no longer a safety ground connection to the electrical system. Ideally appliances and equipment with three-prong cords should only be plugged into grounded outlets (three-prong outlet). In some cases, where grounded metal boxes were used for the original installation, these boxes are grounded and a three-prong receptacle when properly installed provides the necessary ground connection. The electrician can determine this with a simple meter test. In cases where the box is not grounded and only a two-wire circuit has been installed, the correct solution would be to install a new cable back to the main electrical panel.